Apparatus for assembling fastener



April 20, 1954 M. RABINOWITZ 2,675,770

APPARATUS FOR ASSEMBLING FASTENER ELEMENTS Filed Jan. 3, 1952 2 Shee ts-Sheet 1 April 20, 1954 L. M. RABINOWITZ 2,675,770

APPARATUS FOR ASSEMBLING FASTENER ELEMENTS Filed Jan. 5, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A Z A 7'T02NE) Patented Apr. 20, 1954 APPARATUS FOR ASSEMBLING FASTENER ELEMENTS Louis M. Rabinowitz, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application January 3, 1952, Serial N 0. 264,788

3 Claims.

This invention relates to apparatus for assembling fastener elements, such as eyelets, in longitudinally spaced groups along an elongated fabric strip. More particularly, the inventive apparatus is directed to providing a novel stitching arrangement for the fasteners, and which is cyclically repeated along the strip.

These elongated strips containing fastener elements are widely used in the clothing art, particularlyin the manufacture of lingerie items such as brassieres. As presently manufactured, the eyelets are arranged in groups of two, or sometimes three, along the strip. A space equal to twice the distance between the eyelets of a pair is left between each pair. An operator can then sever the strip midway between each pair to provide shorter strips, each of which is secured to the free end of a brassiere for cooperation with hooks on a similar strip secured to the other free end.

In the usual assembling of the eyelets to the strip, the latter is fed longitudinally relative to a sewing head which sews a uniform line of stitches along the strip. At predetermined spaced and uniform intervals, an eyelet is stitched to the strip, the motion of the strip being halted, stepped, and again halted during attachment of the two legs of the eyelet to the strip. To provide the larger spacing between the sets or pairs of eyelets, no eyelet is attached to the strip at every third location (when the eyelets are arranged in pairs). By severing the strip at these blank locations, shorter strips, each containing a uniformly spaced set of eyelets, are provided.

However, this arrangement has certain disadvantages. In the first place, the location of the cut is not definitely marked, so that the cutter must visually estimate the midpoint between eyelet sets. This frequently results in the short, cut strips being unequal in length, or with the eyelet set not centered therealong. Consequently, there is a possible mismating of the eyelets with their cooperating hooks when the strips are assembled to a garment.

More importantly, the amount of material remaining on each strip on each side of the eyelet set is far more than is needed either for structural support of the attached eyelets or for adequate attachment of the strip to a garment.

The present invention overcomes these disadvantages in a novel manner by providing a predetermined sequence involving stitches of differing lengths and relative orientations. Intermediate the sets of eyelets,'the seam is composed of a series of stitches characterized by a group of stitches at the cutting point including a pair of stitches of one character separated by a single stitch of a different character, thus providing a well-defined marker for the subsequent cut. The series of stitches between eyelet sets is preferably greater in length than the series of stitches securing the eyelets of each set to the strip, but substantially less than twice the spacing of the individual eyelets of each set.

The invention arrangement thus provides the distinct advantages of first, providing a definite marker for the subsequent cutting and which is distinct and outstanding from the immediately adjacent stitches, and, second, greatly reducing the length of fabric needed for a given number of eyelet sets. All this is effected solely by the stitching operation by varying the character of the stitches at preset intervals along the strip.

For an understanding of the invention principles, reference is made to the following detailed description of a typical embodiment thereof as illustrated in the accompanying drawing.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a partial plan View of cyclical control apparatus for efiecting the invention; Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional view of the apparatus on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged elevation view of a ratchet and pawl stepping mechanism for feeding the eyelet strip longitudinally;

Fig. 4 is an elevation view of a no-backlash arrangement for the stepping mechanism;

Fig. 5 is an elevation of a cam controlling lateral positioning of the sewing head relative to the strip; and

Fig. 6 is a partial plan view of a finished strip.

In accordance with the invention method, as applied to a strip l0, such as shown in Fig. 6, in which the eyelets are arranged in spaced pairs inserted laterally between overlapping edges, the sequence of stitching is as follows. Beginning with the leading leg 13 of the first eyelet I5 inserted between the lapped strip edges, the strip or tape is held fixed against longitudinal movement while the sewing head is reciprocated twice laterally of the strip to make a dual lateral or tack stitch IS in advance of leg 13 to fix the eyelet against movement in one direction longitudinally of the strip. The sewing head then remains laterally fixed while the strip is stepped longitudinally in a sequence involving a long step, substantially one-half the long step, and a second long step. This forms a longstitch l1 binding leg l3, to-the strip, a short stitch l8 between leg l3 and trailing leg M and a long stitch 2| binding leg M to the strip. Next, the tape remains stationary while the sewing head is reciprocated twice laterally of the strip to form another dual tack stitch 22 fixing the eyelet against movement in the opposite direction along strip in.

With the sewing head laterally fixed, the strip is now advanced, in a series of short steps, to the position of the leading leg I3 of the next eyelet, and the next eyelet is positioned in the strip. For example, eight short steps may be given the strip in a typical practical embodiment. This forms a seam comprising a series of short stitches 23 uniting the lapped strip edge between the eyelets of one pair. The second eyelet is then stitched to the strip in the; same. sequence of lateral and longitudinal stitching as described in the immediately preceding paragraph, primed corresponding reference characters being used.

The novel out. line" marking is now provided in the following manner. and following the formation of the tack. stitching securing the trailing leg I A ofthe second. eyelet IE to the strip. The sewing head is maintained fixed in alignment with the sea-111. The strip is advanced.

three long steps toform. three long stitches 2.7 (a dilferent number may. be used, if desired). Next, the strip remains longitudinally sta tionary while a laterally extending tack stitch 28 isformed intermediate two eyelet groups. Then the strip is advanced three long steps to form three long stitches 28.

The cutting line'is thus clearly indicated by a lateral tack stitch intermediate the successive eyelet groups and separated from each group by the series of three long stitches 2 1 or 28.

Figs. 1 through 5 illustrate a preferred cycle control and strip stepping apparatus, according having a hub 34 oscillat'able on a stub shaft 36 secured to frame 3!). 'Roller' 32 presses'the tape [0 against stepping roller for frictional drawing of strip 10. Shaft3l and drive roller-25 are stepped by a ratchet and pawl mechanism, generally indicated at 35, and including a; ratchet wheel 31 fixed to shaft 31 and driven by the-cycle control and'stepping mechanism.

The latter includes a main driving pinion 4!, rotated by a driving motorinot shown) and driving a gear 42 pinned to one end-of-a shaft 43 rotatable in frame 30. The opp d of shaft 43 has fixed thereon a pinion 44 driving a gear 46 secured onone end of a short shaft 41 rotatable in a bearing 58 on frame 30. The opposite end of shaft 41 has fixed thereon a gear 48 driving a gear pinned to a control cam 50 freely rotatable on shaft 43. A separation disc 5| is interposed betweengear 45 and cam 50.

An arm 52 is juxtaposed with cam 50, extendsparallel to the plane including shafts 3'1: and.43, and is formed with elongated slots 53 and: 54"

respectively receiving shafts 3:! and 43. Orrthe rear end of arm; 52, a roller: cam. follower 55' is rotatably. mounted. A. tension spring 5 6,,secured between the-forwardendofiarmizrandaremote part of frame 30, biases the arm to maintain roller 55 engaged with cam 50.

The forward end of arm 52 has an extension 51 to which is secured a rack 58 engaged with a gear 50 rotatable on shaft 3| and juxtaposed with ratchet 31. Gear 66 pivotally mounts a pawl Bl on a stud 59, and pawl 60 is biased by a spring 62 into engagement with ratchet 31. For a purpose: to be described, ratchet 31 has alternate long and short teeth 63 and 64, respectively, as best seen in Fig. 3.

I determined values.-

Back lash of the strip stepping mechanism is prevented by the arrangement shown in Figs. 1 and. 4. This includes a fine toothed ratchet 65 engaged by a pawl 66 pivotally mounted on a bracket 61 on frame 30. A spring 68 secured to bracketiilbiasespawl 66 to engage ratchet 65.

When a lateral or tack stitch (I6, 20, 22) is to be formed, the sewing head, schematically illustrated at I00 as laterally movable along a slide [01, is laterally shif-te'd" by the-mechanism shown at. the right of Fig. 1 and in Fig.5. A.

worm. H is driven by the. same means driving pinion M, sothat worm H "and pinion 4| are insynchronism with each-other. The worm drives a worm gear 12 concentrically juxtaposed-to a circular disc 73 against the opposite face of which a lobed cam- H!- is concentrically juxtaposed. Gear 12, disc 13 --and=cam 'ill-are pinned together to form a unit rotatable on a shaft 74.

Cam (0 isengaged by'a roller cam follower 75 rotatably mounted on one end of an arm 16 having an elongated slot 1:! 'adjustably receiving through roller 55, arm 52, rack 58, gear 60, and pawl 61, rotating ratchet 3'! counterclockwise (Figs. 2 and 3)' intwo-strokesfor each cycle of the cam, each strokeinvolving; a plurality of steps in a predetermined sequence and of prefrom the following description ofa typical cycle during whicha pair of eyelets I5,- l5 are assernbled to strip; l0 and. the cut marking arrangement is provided.

In the-positions of cams 50' andv lllshown in Figs. 2 and 5, and in Fig.1, respectively, tack stitch 22 has just been formed to fix eyelet l5 longitudinally of strip, id; Roller 15 has just ridden off lobe 82d onto circular surface 3i, and the sewing head'is aligned. with the seam stitches. Roller 55 has becnJi'ding into relatively shallow depression 9m causing arm 52 and rack 58 to be: drawn to the right (Fig. '2.) to retategear fiil clockwise an amount sufficient for pawl 61 to slip back overa short tooth 64 0f ratchet 37.

As c am 50' rotates, roller 55 successively.

engages a series of step like lobes 92a, each efiecting a short movement of cam 5-2 and rack 58: to the left. Preferably, six. (6) steps are: provided with provisionfor. a further idle? step if desired; Each time-roller '55is thus stepped-to the left. the strip lil'i'szmoved'through the-length;

ofashortstitchfi; roller: 55.= rides; onto. circular-surface of When When roller 1-5 engages any of This will best be understood cam 50, roller 15 is just at lob 826. Thus, while strip l remains stationary due to roller 55 remaining stationary, the sewing head is reciprocated twice, laterally of strip II], as roller I rides over lobes 82c, 82 and back onto surface 8|, to form the tack stitch [6 at leg l3 of eyelet I5. Next, roller 55 rides over high step 92b, low step 920, and high step 92d to form the long, short, long stitch sequence l1, l8, 2|. Roller 55 then starts to ride into deep depression 91b as roller 15 starts to ride over lobe 829. The tape or strip remains stationary as the sewing head is reciprocated by virtue of roller 15 riding successively over lobes 829, 8271. to form tack stitch 22'.

Meanwhile, as roller 55'reaches the bottom of depression 911), arm 52 is moved to the right, rotating gear 60 clockwise a sufficient amount to ride pawl 6| back over the next long tooth 63 of ratchet 31. Roller 55 then is stepped to the left by riding over the successively arranged relatively high steps 92c, preferably three (3) in number, to form the three long stitches, 21. As roller 55 rides along circular surface 96, strip in remains idle while the sewing head is reciprocated once laterally, as roller 15 rides over lobe 83, to form the out marking lateral stitch 20.

The roller 55 then is stepped'successively to the left by the relatively high steps 92f to form the long stitches 28, one of the four steps being an idle step if desired. As roller 55 rides along circular surfac 91, roller 15 rides over lobes 82a, 82b to form the tack stitch H3 at the leading leg of the first eyelet l5 of the next eyelet group. Roller 55 then is stepped by the high, low, high steps 92g, 92h, 922' to form the long, short, long stitch sequence l'l, l8, 2| between the eyelet legs. Roller 55 then rides over an idle step and into depression Bla as roller 15 rides over the successive lobes 82c, 82d to form tack stitch 22. The cycle is now complete and is repeated.

The reason for the alternating long and short teeth 63, 64 on ratchet 3! will be clear from an inspection of Figs. 2 and 6. Referring to Fig. 6, it will be noted that the center-to-center distance between the eyelets l5, l5 of each pair is substantially shorter than the center-to-center distance between the trailing eyelet l5 of one pair and the leading eyelet 55 of the next pair.

The distance between lateral stitch 22 for the trailing leg of eyelet '15 (Fig. 6) and the corresponding stitch 22 of eyelet i5 is represented by six short stitches, a long stitch, a seventh short stitch, and a second long stitch. Assuming, solely for comparison purposes, that each long stitch has twice the length of a short stitch, this distance is the equivalent of 11 short stitches, or 11 units of movement to the left of roller 55- and ratchet 52 of Fig. 2 from depression 9la to depression 9w.

Now the distance from the second stitch 22 (eyelet 15') of Fig. 6 tothe next stitch 22 includes two sets of three long stitches, a seventh long stitch, a short stitch, and an eighth long stitch. Using the same stitch length relation as before, this represents 17 short stitches, or 17 units of movement to the left of roller 55 (Fig. 2) from depression Bib [back to depression Sla.

Thus, the radially outward movement of roller 55 from the illustrated position of Fig. 2. to the top of step 9201 is only about its radial outward movement from depression 9lb to the top of step 922. As rack 52 is moved further to the left in the second half of the cycle than during 6, right to start the second cycle in order to come back to its starting point at the end of the cycle. Therefore, if the dog 6| (Fig. 3) is to engage behind a ratchet tooth without any lost motion of ratchet 31 during movement of rack 52 to the left, the tooth 63 engaged at the start of the second half of the cycle must be longer than the tooth 64 engaged at the start of the firsthalf of the cycle. Thus, the alternating long and short teeth of ratchet 31 are to accommodate the. difference in the length of the stroke of rack 52 during the two halves of the cycle of cam 50. The inventive apparatus thus form a novel eyelet strip in which there is a saving in materials as compared to such strips as previously formed. Additionally, a definite and clearly defined cut mark isprovided by a lateral or tack stitch separated from each of two adjacent eyelet groups by a series of distinctively long stitches. While a specific embodiment of the invention has been shown and described in detail to illustrate the application of the invention principles, it will be understood that the invention may be otherwise embodied'without departing from such principles.

What is claimed is? 1. In the manufacture of a continuous fastener strip in which fasteners are inserted at spaced intervals along the strip and between overlapped longitudinal portions of the strip andsecured in place by a longitudinal stitched seam uniting such overlapped portions, the fasteners being arranged in spaced groups eachincludfing at least two fasteners, and the seamedstrip being later severed between fastener groups to provide shorter strips each containing one group of fasteners, a sewing head, apparatus for'drawing said strip longitudinally relative to the sewing head to form said seam comprising, in combination, a driven element engaged with the strip and operable to draw the same longitudinally past the sewing head, a control cam, driving means for said cam, a cam follower engaged with said cam, stepping means interconnecting said cam follower and said element responsive to movement of said cam follower by said cam, mechanism operable to shift the sewing head,

laterally of the strip to form a lateral stitch therein, and a second cam for operating said mechanism and driven by said driving means. in timed relation with said control cam, said mechanism including a second cam follower,

engaged with said second cam and operable,

when shifted, to move the sewing head laterally of the strip, said second cam having spaced cam lobes, separated by follower resting surfaces, to shift said second cam follower at predetermined intervals, said control cam having cam follower moving surfaces constructed to impart motion to said first cam follower to correspondingly step said element to form a longitudinal stitch in the seam and cam follower idling surfaces separating said moving surfaces, one of said cam lobes being engaged by said second cam follower each time the sewinghead is substantially at the midpoint between fastener groups, said moving surfaces being engaged by said first cam follower immediately before and after said second cam follower engages said one cam lobe, and said first cam follower engaging one of said idling surfaces while said second cam follower rides over said one cam lobe, to form a laterally extending cut marking stitch the first half, it must be moved further to the 1; substantially at the midpoint between fastener gamma groups and at least; one 'longitudinaleistitchmnc at least two fasteners, and the seamed strip bein'g later severed between fastener groups" to provide shorter group of fasteners, a sewing head, apparatus for drawing said strip longitudinally relative to the sewing head to form said seam comprising, in combination, a driven element engaged with the strip and operable to draw the same- Iongitudinallypast the sewing head, a control cam,

driving means for said cam, a cam follower" en gaged-with said. cam, stepping. means intercon nectingv said cam follower and saidelement responsive to movement of said cam follower by; said; cam, mechanism operable to shift the sew ing head. laterally of the strip to formv a lat eral stitch therein, and a. second cam. for operating said mechanism and driven by said driving means in timed relation with said control" cam, said mechanism including a second cam follower engaged with said second cam and perable, when shifted, to move the sewing head laterally of the strip, said second cam having spaced cam lobes, separated by follower resting surfaces, to shift said second cam follower at predetermined intervals, said control cam having cam follower moving surfaces constructed to impart motion to said first cam follower to correspondingly step said element to form a longitudinal stitch in the seam and cam follower idling surfaces separating said moving surfaces, one of said cam lobes being engaged by said second cam follower each time the sewing head is substantially at the midpoint between fastener groups, said moving surfaces being engaged by said first cam follower immediately before and after said second cam follower engages said one cam lobe, and said first cam follower engaging one of said idling surfaces while said second cam follower rides over said one cam lobe, to form a laterally extending cut marking stitch substantially at the midpoint between fastener groups and at least one longitudinal stitch on each side of said lateral cut" marking stitch, at least a second one of said cam lobes being engaged by said second cam follower each time the sewing head is adjacent either sideof a fastener and when said first cam follower is engaged with an idling surface to form a lateral stitch on each side of each fastener.

3. In the manufacture of a continuous fastener strip in which fasteners are inserted at spaced intervals along the strip and between overlapped longitudinal portions of the strip and secured in place by a longitudinal stitch:

seam uniting such overlapped portions, the fasteners being arranged in spaced groups each including at least two fasteners, and the seamed strips each containing one strip being; later. severed: between fastener groupsto; provide: shorter strips each containing one: groupiof fasteners; a. sewing head, apparatus for drawingsaid strip; longitudinally relative: to

the sewing head to form saidseam comprising in; combination, a driven elementengaged withthe strip; and operable" to draw theisame ,longi tudinally. past the sewing head, acontrol cam, driving means for said cam, a cam. follower en-- gage'd with said cam, stepping means interconnecting said cam follower and said elementresponsive to movement of said. camfollower-by said cam, mechanism operable to shift the-:sew-

ingi head; laterally of the strip to form a lat-- eral stitch therein, and a second cam for operating said mechanism and driven by said driving. means in timed relation. with said control cam,..said mechanismdncludi-ng a second-pans follower engaged with sa-id seeond cam and operable,. when shifted; to move the-sewing head; laterally of the strip; .said; second. camohavingz spacedi cam-lobes,,.separateds by follower rest.

ing surfaces, to shift saidw-second camfollower at predetermined intervals, said control cam havingfirst cam follower receiving surfaces con-- being engaged by said second cam follower each time the sewing head is substantially atthe midpoint between fastener groups, the surface of the. control cam operative on. said first follower when the sewing headis between fastener groups comprising two series of said second moving. sur faces separated by an elongated. idling surface at the midpoint, whereby said apparatus is thereupon conditioned to form two series of rel-- atively long stitches between fastener groups and separated: by a lateral out marking stitch, at least a second one of said cam lobes being en.- gaged} by said second cam. follower each time the sewing head is adjacenteither sideof a fastener and. when. said first camfollower is engaged withian idling surface to form a lateral stitch on each side of each fastener, the surface of. said control cam engaged by said firstv follower when. the sewing head. is between the. fasteners. of a group comprising a series of said first moving surfaces to form. a line of relatively short stitches between the fasteners of each group;

References Cited in the file of this patent UNLTED STATES PA'I-ENTS' Number Name Date 1,801,570 Roseman Apr.. 21, 1931 1',905,'504 Roseman Apr. 25, 1933 2,034,689. Alberts Mar. 24, 1936 2,067,371 I ,Allis Jan. 12', 1937 

